声明|消除误解,还原真实的里奥哈

近期,国内部分媒体报道了里奥哈产区的一则新闻,即有少数酒庄寻求脱离里奥哈自立一个新产区。

国内专业葡萄酒媒体对于此事的关注是一个积极的信号,反映了市场对里奥哈品牌重要性的认识和认可。

然而,在一些文章中我们发现了一些误解和事实错误,因此我们希望大家能了解到正确的信息以避免混淆。

Some media have lately written about the current situation in Rioja, where a few wineries have proposed to separate into a new Designation of Origin.

The fact that this issue deserved the attention of professional Chinese media is a positive sign that reflects the awareness and acknowledgement of the importance of Rioja brand in the market.

However, some misunderstandings and factual errors have been detected in a few articles so it is important to provide the correct information for everyone, in order to avoid confusion.

里奥哈产区与管理委员会

关于里奥哈葡萄酒优质原产地保护产区的有趣的一点是,产区酒庄分布于3个相邻的大区:拉里奥哈、纳瓦拉和巴斯克地区。为何里奥哈产区会横跨三个大区,是由于产区是在1925年被确立为地理标志保护,远早于1978年宪法规定的西班牙如今的行政划分。

One interesting feature of Rioja is that this D.O. has members in 3 neighbouring Autonomous Communities: La Rioja, Navarra and Basque Country. The establishment of Rioja as a protected geographical indication, in 1925, long precedes the current political division of Spain created by the 1978 constitution.

1925年,里奥哈产区可谓是先驱,它是西班牙公认的第一个地理标志保护(早于1935年法国AOC分级制度的建立),并在 1991 年,再次成为第一个D.O.Ca(优质原产地保护,即西班牙最高级别的质量保证)。

Rioja was a pioneer in 1925, when it was recognised as Spain’s first protected geographical indication (earlier than the establishment of the French AOC system in 1935), and again in 1991, when it became the first D.O.Ca. (Qualified Designation of Origin, the highest level of quality guarantee in Spain).

优质原产地保护的要求之一是其所有葡萄酒必须在优质原产地保护的区域内装瓶。三十年后,西班牙仍然仅有两个D.O.Ca——里奥哈和普里奥拉托。

One of the requirements of the Qualified Designation of Origin is that all its wine must be bottled within the D.O.Ca. Thirty years later, there are still only two D.O.Ca. in Spain (Rioja and Priorat).

管理委员会

管理委员会在任何D.O.原产地保护产区的主要任务之一,便是监督和确保其所有葡萄种植者和酒庄遵守葡萄种植和葡萄酒生产的质量控制规定。里奥哈产区的这些规定比任何其他西班牙D.O.产区都要严格。更严格的质量控制使得里奥哈葡萄酒的整体价值更优于其他西班牙产区。

One of the key tasks of the Regulatory Board in any D.O. is to supervise and ensure that all its grape growers and wineries follow the quality control regulations for grape growing and wine production. These regulations are stricter in Rioja than in any other Spanish D.O. and this stronger quality contributes to Rioja’s value being much higher than that of Spanish wines as a whole.

变革与更新

上述提出的脱离里奥哈并成立新的D.O.产区的提案来自于里奥哈阿拉维萨酒庄协会(ABRA)的一些酒庄。这个协会仅代表了里奥哈产区总销售的4%,且部分协会成员支持这一提案。虽然这个数字很小,但由于里奥哈是一个非常重要的品牌,每一条来自它的新闻都与之息息相关。

The aforementioned proposal to break away into a new D.O. came from some wineries within the Association of Wineries of Rioja Alavesa (ABRA). This association represents just about 4% of the total Rioja turnover, and only a part of its members support the proposal. The figures are small but since Rioja is a very important brand every piece of news coming from it is relevant.

无论如何,D.O.Ca.Rioja里奥哈葡萄酒优质原产地(与任何其他D.O.)一样都是自愿加入的,任何想退出的酒庄都可以在任何时候选择离开。

Anyway, D.O.Ca. Rioja (like any other D.O.) has voluntary membership: any winery wishing to leave any would be free to do so at any time.

2017年,里奥哈更新了分级制度,引入了基于葡萄酒具体产地的更为细分分级制度。 单一园 (英语:Single Vineyard / 西班牙语:Viñedo Singular)可谓是对于风土的最好表达,截止2021年6月,里奥哈已有121处通过批准的单一园。

In 2017, Rioja updated its classification regulation, introducing geographical indications based on the origin of the wines. The highest expression of the orientation towards the terroir was the creation of the Single (Singular) Vineyard classification (as of June 2021, Rioja already has 121 approved Single Vineyards).

2017年里奥哈新分级制度

大多数的成员都为此感到高兴,有些人则认为这一举措太过超前,也有人认为这还远远不够……不过这仅仅只是旅程的开始,这番百家争鸣的情况亦证明了里奥哈产区的活力和多样,产区内不同的成员各抒己见,通过持续的对话来交流并发表看法。

Most members are happy with this, some think it went too far and some think it didn’t go far enough… anyway it is the beginning of this journey and the debate is proof of the vitality of the Designation of Origin, a diverse region with very different members who naturally have different points of view and opinions, which they express in a continuous dialogue.

实力与声誉

与此同时,国际上对里奥哈葡萄酒高品质的认可也在逐年增长: 里奥哈葡萄酒入选《Wine Spectator 葡萄酒观察家》杂志 – 2020年全球最优秀葡萄酒100强之首,James Suckling西班牙葡萄酒100榜单中,里奥哈葡萄酒几乎占据一半,除此之外更有来自于葡萄酒大师Tim Atkin、《Wine Enthusiast 葡萄酒爱好者》、《Decanter 醇鉴》杂志世界葡萄酒大奖等的诸多盛赞。

In the meantime, the international acknowledgement of the great quality of the wines from D.O.Ca. Rioja grows every year: in 2020 Wine Spectator chose a Rioja wine as the best in the world in their Top 100 ranking, James Suckling selected Rioja wines for almost half of his list of the Best 100 wines from Spain, and more accolades came from other relevant players like Tim Atkin, Wine Enthusiast, Decanter World Wine Awards…

让我们倒一杯最爱的里奥哈葡萄酒,好好放松和享受吧。

干杯!

Let’s pour a glass of our favourite Rioja, relax and enjoy,

Salud!